E. Star Waterfowl Taxidermy
Field Care Guide
What you do in the first hour matters as much as anything that happens in the studio.
Choosing Your Bird
Be intentional about choosing a specimen for mounting. Don't grab one out of the pile at the end of the hunt after it's been on the dead strap, chewed by a dog, tossed over the tailgate, or breasted out. Think about the pose you want, and check the bird's head, wings, body, and feet for damage before deciding it's a mount-quality bird.
In the Field
These birds are harvested with the understanding that they'll take multiple pellets — hiding that damage well is part of the craft. But a few simple steps in the field make a big difference:
- Use small shot (no larger than #5) when hunting a bird you intend to mount.
- Retrieve the bird by hand whenever possible.
- Let the bird cool down after harvest before bagging it.
- Keep it separate from the rest of your birds, out of the sun.
If your bird is still alive when retrieved
Do not shoot it again, do not wring its neck, and do not use a finishing tool. Instead, place the bird under your knee and apply gentle, steady pressure to its back or chest — without moving it around or damaging feathers or bones. After a few minutes the bird will pass, and the skin and feathers stay in much better condition than with other methods.
Freezing & Wrapping
Fold the bird's head over its back. Wrap the head and feet in wet paper towels. Place it in a ziplock freezer bag, roll out all the air, and freeze it as soon as possible — double-bagged (a 2.5-gallon ziplock freezer bag), and kept out of the sun until it's frozen.
The Most Common Mistake
The single most common thing that ruins a bird: pantyhose, or any bag that isn't truly airtight.
How Long Can It Stay Frozen?
Packaged correctly, a bird can stay frozen for several years. Packaged poorly, it may only hold up for a couple of months.